My taste for sushi will never be the same. I had dinner at Sushi Bar Yasuda, eating what probably is the best 15 pieces of sushi I've ever tasted. From the rice which hinted a bit of the vinegar, to the "aged" seafood, the meal showed a glimpse of what sushi is and what sushi could be.
Throughout dinner Chef Yasuda took on the roles of sushi chef, dinner companion and cultural ambassador. Topics ranged from his celebrity regulars (Antony Bourdain and Martha stewart used to visit Sushi Yasuda bi-weekly and weekly respectively) to other sushi chefs. The environment was light and the sushi was fantastic.
After 30+ years in the US, Yasuda-san came back home in 2011 to satiate what he says is his long regret - not having made sushi in Japan. Now he serves his clientele, mostly foreigners in a building basement that seats 13 people (9 on the bar counter and tables that can seat 4). His menu is simple, a choice between the more affordable 16 piece assortment or the omakase - 12 pieces specially prepared by Yasuda-san depending on what's available that day. Judging on his customer's appetite, he will ask if you still have room after the first 12.
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I chose the Omakase, and to my luck, there were more than 40 different seafood available.
Unlike the more traditional Omakase, dinner starts with the chef asking about my preferences. The first piece of sushi, a firm white fish was served. After taking my first bite, he commented "good form", referring to my chopstick skills. I later on noticed that he shows his customers the right way to eat sushi.
The next few courses came quickly, salmon from the indian ocean and 2 pieces of toro from the fin and the head of the bluefin tuna. The first bite of toro had a very smooth texture that almost melts while the second piece had a richer flavor.
Then came the highlight of the meal the first 2 servings of sea urchin. The first piece had a bright mustard yellow color. It had a touch of sweetness and a very creamy texture. The second had a darker color but had a softer butter-like texture.
Next came the prawn, which he blanched just minutes before followed by Tiny shrimps which immediately melted in my mouth, and mini squid which provided good contrast in texture. When asked about the last 2 items Yasuda-san cracked a few jokes. "This one is the eyeball fish" (referring to the tiny shrimp) "This is a mini squid, like mini mouse"
The couple on the far end of the bar finished their meal, and took photographs with the Chef. He then apologized for the delay and served spring onions to prepare the palette for the giant clam, sardine and two pieces of fresh water eel that he was grilling.
He then asked me "do you have some more room?" I said yes, then came the fresh water trout from his home town, Soft and flaky. He asked me again if i have more room. I answered maybe for 1 or 2 more. He the offered to make a roll.
He was making a sea urchin roll. This time, the uni had a grey like color. It however had a sweet water like flavor that tasted of the ocean, and a silky texture that was very delicate on the palette.
I was already full, so I refused the good chef as he offered another piece. I drank my last cup of sake, asked for a photo and paid for the meal.
Walking back, I understood why people would go through the trouble of making a trip to Sushi Bar Yasuda, even when the city is riddled with Michelin starred restaurants. Yasuda-san showed me what great sushi is. Now, I can only look forward to my next trip to Tokyo.
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