Tsukiji fish market - a food lover's wonderland (pictures)

I've always had a fascination with markets. I find that it is a good way to look at a country's food culture, outside the restaurants. Famous for its daily tuna auction, the fish market also has other interesting things. The wholesale market for example houses an astonishing variety of seafood and produce while the outer market is home to a wide range of shops and restaurants.

It was a must for me to visit the famed fish market during my last trip to Tokyo. It did not disappoint. My senses were given a treat as I looked and ate my way through the market.

The inner market:

Outside the wholesale market

shellfish - clams and crabs

Uni!!! (sea urchin) of different variety and quality

the wholesale market is so busy, I needed to be careful not to get hit by the machinery

Wasabi - the tiny ones that cost JPY8,000 were supposed to be the best

Sushi restaurants just outside the wholesale market 

Aritsugu kitchen knives

Outer Market

Vendor grilling sea scallops

Scallops, snapper and oysters waiting to be grilled

the grilled scallop had a natural sweetness

Row of restaurants and shops on one of the side streets

Prepacked abalone

Hair crabs - tasted buttery with a grainy texture

Man selling steam dumplings with wasabi mustard

Easter weekend at Shady Shacks

I needed to take a break, to take a step back and to take a deep breath. I was being out hustled by the city. The buzz from the orchestra of construction works, engine roars and people chatter was deafening. I had to escape, even if it was only for the weekend; even if it was only to Bintan.

An hour ferry from Singapore and a 45-min drive brought me to Shady Shacks.traveling light with flip flops, bathing suits, and pocket money, our group did not plan nor expect much. Simply put, we were all there to get away.

the huts on the beach

The Accommodation reflected what the name advertised. They were indeed shacks, that reminded of simpler times. The humble wooden huts on the beach served as shade from the burning heat during the day and shelter from the cool ocean breeze in the evening. Inside were bunk beds lined with mosquito nets where we laid our weary bodies.

tree trunk on shore

There are no tanning beds and beach umbrellas on the beach, only sand peppered with pieces of coral and crushed sea shells. Dried bark and leaves from the trees meters away were scattered on shore. The splash of each wave was a soft touch and a gentle whisper. During the day, the beach boasted of a modest beauty that need not call for attention.

Dawn

Darkness embraced the sky as nigh came. Inch by inch as the sun set, the sky changed from blue to purple to black. At the same time, the moon rose and shined a white light that glazed the top of the ocean. The ocean calmed down and the waves splashed gently. The nights were peaceful and comforting.

the evening sky

As we spent the days lying on the sand and the evenings admiring the moon, the 3 days went by quickly. It was an escape from the busy life in the city. Coming back to provincial life was a chance to enjoy the little things like the sound of the ocean, the light from the moon and the touch of the ocean breeze. It's a shame that it ended quickly, but it was just enough. I was ready to go back.

Bird Land - Michelin Star Chicken Skewers

After telling my friend Francis about my trip to Tokyo, he suggested that I should eat at Bird Land. Trusting his taste in food, I immediately looked it up and booked dinner. 

Named after a famous New York city jazz bar, Bird Land serves yakitori, Japanese style charcoal grilled chicken skewers. It is also one of the many Michelin starred restaurants in Tokyo. 

(outside) at a building basement near Ginza Station

With Tokyo having good eateries conveniently next to subway stations, Bird Land is located just outside the Ginza station. The restaurant looked very commonplace, but the food was not ordinary.

There are 2 sets available, both serving appetizers, liver pate, 8 courses of skewers and a bowl of oyako-don to finish, with the more expensive set offering more skewers and dessert. 

appetizer plate

The course started with appetizers of jellied gizzard, pickled chicken skin, sesame seed covered gobo and fresh greens. 

half cooked chicken with Japanese Plum sauce and basil leaves

chicken liver pate

Followed by half cooked chicken with Japanese plum sauce and basil, and a gorgeous liver pate. 

chicken breast with wasabi

chicken liver

neck meat with crispy skin.

Then came the first wave of skewers, chicken breast with wasabi, chicken liver, and neck meat with skin. The liver was really well cooked. My sister commented that it had the consistency and texture similar to foie gras.

fresh tofu with olive oil and black pepper

In between, fresh tofu with olive oil and cracked black pepper was served. It was a good palette cleanser.

gingko nuts 

thigh meat with cartilage

chicken meat balls and the micro green and tomato salad

Skewers of ginkgo nuts, thigh meat with cartilage, and chicken meat balls soon followed. Breaking things up again, micro green and tomato salad was served.

chicken teriyaki

shiitake mushroom

grilled chicken and leeks

grilled hceese

The last set of skewers then came, chicken teriyaki, shiitake mushrooms, chicken and leeks, and grilled cheese.

oyako-don

caramel custard

The oyako-don was served just moments later. It's delicate flavor complemented the perfectly cooked egg on top. For dessert, a soft caramel custard ended the meal on a sweet note.

The food served in Bird Land is a mixed bag of food commonly served in other Yakitori restaurants and food unique to this regarded eatery. The sequence of which food was served gives a fine dining feel. Dishes like the fresh tofu and green salad provided a breather, making it easier to appreciate the complex flavors of the succeeding dish. Appreciating Bird Land goes beyond the food. The entire dinner needs to be evaluated as a whole to fully appreciate the experience.  

An Education in Sushi: Sushi Bar Yasuda

My taste for sushi will never be the same. I had dinner at Sushi Bar Yasuda, eating what probably is the best 15 pieces of sushi I've ever tasted. From the rice which hinted a bit of the vinegar, to the "aged" seafood, the meal showed a glimpse of what sushi is and what sushi could be.

Throughout dinner Chef Yasuda took on the roles of sushi chef, dinner companion and cultural ambassador. Topics ranged from his celebrity regulars (Antony Bourdain and Martha stewart used to visit Sushi Yasuda bi-weekly and weekly respectively) to other sushi chefs. The environment was light and the sushi was fantastic.

After 30+ years in the US, Yasuda-san came back home in 2011 to satiate what he says is his long regret - not having made sushi in Japan. Now he serves his clientele, mostly foreigners in a building basement that seats 13 people (9 on the bar counter and tables that can seat 4). His menu is simple, a choice between the more affordable 16 piece assortment or the omakase - 12 pieces specially prepared by Yasuda-san depending on what's available that day. Judging on his customer's appetite, he will ask if you still have room after the first 12.

I chose the Omakase, and to my luck, there were more than 40 different seafood available. 

Unlike the more traditional Omakase, dinner starts with the chef asking about my preferences. The first piece of sushi, a firm white fish was served. After taking my first bite, he commented "good form", referring to my chopstick skills. I later on noticed that he shows his customers the right way to eat sushi.

The next few courses came quickly, salmon from the indian ocean and  2 pieces of toro from the fin and the head of the bluefin tuna. The first bite of toro had a very smooth texture that almost melts while the second piece had a richer flavor.

Then came the highlight of the meal the first 2 servings of sea urchin. The first piece had a bright mustard yellow color. It had a touch of sweetness and a very creamy texture. The second had a darker color but had a softer butter-like texture. 

Next came the prawn, which he blanched just minutes before followed by Tiny shrimps which immediately melted in my mouth, and mini squid which provided good contrast in texture. When asked about the last 2 items Yasuda-san cracked a few jokes. "This one is the eyeball fish" (referring to the tiny shrimp) "This is a mini squid, like mini mouse" 

The couple on the far end of the bar finished their meal, and took photographs with the Chef. He then apologized for the delay and served spring onions to prepare the palette for the giant clam, sardine and two pieces of fresh water eel that he was grilling.

He then asked me "do you have some more room?" I said yes, then came the fresh water trout from his home town, Soft and flaky. He asked me again if i have more room. I answered maybe for 1 or 2 more. He the offered to make a roll. 

He was making a sea urchin roll. This time, the uni had a grey like color. It however had a sweet water like flavor that tasted of the ocean, and a silky texture that was very delicate on the palette.

I was already full, so I refused the good chef as he offered another piece. I drank my last cup of sake, asked for a photo and paid for the meal.

Walking back, I understood why people would go through the trouble of making a trip to Sushi Bar Yasuda, even when the city is riddled with Michelin starred restaurants. Yasuda-san showed me what great sushi is. Now, I can only look forward to my next trip to Tokyo.